Tuesday, 31 January 2012

Suit - toile fitting

I held a toile fitting for this suit as I was unsure how everything would work, due to the unusual shapes in the jacket as well as when considering more fitted tailoring for the contoured female form.

The skirt fitting went well, it needed only to be slightly let out over the hips so that the fabric lay more smoothly across the body here. I also decided to make deeper pleats in the skirt back so that it gives a wider appearance when the wearer walks - just like how the suit appears in the film.

There were, predictably, various changes to be made in the jacket. We changed proportions slightly in the lapel, and the width of the central belt was too thick. It was also decided to double the height of the shoulder pads, to get the same silhouette as on Joan Crawford. Here, it was interesting to note how to change properties of the costume itself, in order to develop the same silhouette as in a costume design. In this case, Joan Crawford was known to have naturally very broad shoulders for her slim frame; whereas my model does not have particularly broad ones. To get the same look, then, a lot more has to be added to the understructure of the suit itself, in the canvases and padding! I also made the jacket more fitted across the back by taking larger darts, to create a fit which was closer to the contours of the body.

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