Thursday, 22 March 2012

Cutting out and preparing for second fitting

Before cutting out I hung my fabric on the bias for a week. I hoped to stretch it out as much as possible, to avoid the fabric 'dropping' later on. From past experience in working with silk velvet backed on calico, this was a real problem which kept creeping up weeks into the project and I hoped to eliminate as much as possible at the beginning.

I carefully ironed the fabric. Cutting it out was difficult as, as I had anticipated, the cloth liked to move about. To try to combat this I fixed it to the cutting table with masking tape; however the cloth still moved under the blade of the scissors themselves as I cut. Therefore, on top of the large seam allowances that I had decided in include in case of need of alteration, I cut excess around the pattern pieces, so that they could be 'tidied up' if needed. I also created a little tool to check the bias of the cloth, so that I was getting the pieces really on the correct grain.

I mark tacked the fabric by hand to get all of the lines and placements. This was time consuming but I really felt that it was a necessary step. I then placed the pieces of top fabric on the backing fabric, basted them together, then re-tacked around all of the lines to keep them together, using a different colour.

I decided to go ahead and sew together the skirt parts, as I was confident in the fit across the body. The bodice was more of a grey area though, and thus I tacked this together instead, anticipating changes.

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