Friday, 27 January 2012

Testing patterns on a stand

After drafting a basic pattern for the jacket, no sleeves, I cut half a jacket in calico with large seam allowances, pinned it together, and placed it on a stand which I had padded up to my model's measurements in order to see how the design lines function.

Although the jacket will need to have a certain degree of ease, it was clear that it was too loose for the fit especially in the skirt portion, which should be quite fitted to the body. The shape of the lapel, also was wrong, as was the neckline. I re-pinned the half-toile on the mannequin before making alterations on to the pattern.

In the future, I think it would be easier and less time-consuming if I started on the stand, rather than making a flat pattern first. As long as I take enough time to accurately pad out a stand to the wearer's measurements, it should make things easier as getting a certain look as I will be able to immediately judge it by eye. This is especially valuable when complicated design lines are required, as with this jacket. Alterations regarding ease can always be adjusted at a fitting, providing that I cut a toile with large seam allowances.

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