My research tells me that in couture workrooms, patterns are developed by draping on the stand. However, I have decided to start by flat-drafting the jacket pattern according to instructions in Pattern cutting for women's tailored jackets: classic and contemporary (Aldrich, 2002). This is because I am not familiar with drafting women's jackets, and am not aware of the amount of ease required to get a good fit. As Aldrich's directions incorporate standard ease I have decided to start with a flat pattern, to be able to check all the measurements, and alter the shapes by eye. Then I will cut half a jacket in calico and place it on the stand, in order to see which elements, if any, need change.
I will draft the skirt flat as this is not an unusual shape or fit, and there should be minimal alterations to a basic straight skirt block.