Wednesday, 22 February 2012

Pad stitching

I have been thinking a lot about how to create the very prominent roll on the lapels. I have come to the conclusion that to shape the lapels, I will have to make specific shapes via the pad stitching. The section closest to the centre front will be rolled the most, with the mid-section stitched flat. This should create the dip.

I was unsure about how to treat the very ends of the lapels. I have spoken to Kat to ask her opinion on the pad stitching, and she advised me to roll the ends just as I would with any other lapels (or in other words, as I would treat the corners of a lapel with male tailoring). She said that she believed the uplift effect at the ends of the lapels would be created naturally when the lapel lay against the body.

I decided to pad-stitch a sample lapel which is slightly smaller, to test out the method.

Overall it worked, though Kat has advised me to change the direction of the middle section.

I then pad stitched the whole of the lapels on the jacket front. This took a really long time, and it was difficult to roll them evenly [over my fingertip] as they are so long. However, hopefully these bumps will press out gradually, and with the help of steam.

This has been a really excellent exercise in developing my understanding of the pad stitching technique. I am truly learning advanced methods of manipulating cloth, which is aiding my professional development more and more. It is showing me how to take a technique and apply it in different ways and different situations, in order to achieve specific effects.

The one thing I am not totally pleased about is the unevenness of the pad stitching; however this will continue to improve with practice and meanwhile I should be able to smooth it out by pressing it.

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