Thursday, 2 February 2012

Exploring couture sewing

I spoke to Kat about her construction methods for her Dior-style jacket, and she mentioned some of her own sources of research, including the book Couture Sewing Techniques (Schaeffer, 2011) which I have been looking into in detail.

After reading the book extensively, I have decide to take a more or less"half-and-half" approach regarding the application of the techniques described in the book, combining them with the theatrical menswear tailoring techniques as taught to me by Graham in the past two units. I will not be hand-sewing absolutely everything, but will be making a judgement based on the circumstances and context of my work as to which methods I choose.

For instance, I am machining darts but pressing them flat according to couture methods.

According to tailoring methods, I am top tacking before pressing at folded seams.

I will hand-sew in the zip and leave the skirt lining open over the zip and the back pleats.
Overall the skirt is proving easy to construct; I am taking care to work as accurately and neatly as possible, measuring sections regularly to ensure symmetry. I am working very independently at this stage.

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