Tuesday, 28 February 2012

Decisions regarding the neckline

This jacket has no collar, as all the focus is on the neckline. Finishing the neckline on the front pieces of the jacket is not a problem, as the facing extends up to the neckline. It can therefore just be sewn, turned, then pressed closed.

I had to make a decision regarding how to finish the back neckline. At first I though I would just be able to proceed as I would any normal jacket (with a collar), by turning down the top cloth and cross stitching it down to the canvas; then, folding the lining up and slip stitching that into place. However, upon much consideration I realised that the absence of a line of firm stitching would mean that the neckline was not secure and could stretch out of shape. I therefore decided to cut a facing out of top cloth, fairly wide (2") to allow for the fabric rising up when the jacket is worn, allowing a glimpse of the inside, so that top cloth is seen and not lining.

Upon further research into men's jackets, I discovered that some jackets (depending on the brand/tailor)  do in fact have a crescent-shaped cloth facing below the back neckline, even with a collar. This has served to confirm my idea of securing the neckline as a good one, as it is done by other practitioners.

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