Friday, 18 November 2011

Re-cutting the collar

The collar draft was completely wrong; this became obvious at the fitting for the fall did not lie close enough to the body. After the fitting I went away and compared my collar draft with that in my research, looking at the collar instruction in the Modern Tailor, Outfitter and Clothier (Whife, 1945). The way I had drafted the collar was not quite as the research:

 I resolved the issue by making the curve at the neckline greater, which would draw the whole thing closer into the body. I then re-cut the collar in calico, and put it on the stand in order to set the shape of the end of collar at the lapel.

This also had to be moved around, again in order to make it lie closer to the body. I did this on the stand, then applied the alteration to my paper pattern.

After doing this I consulted with the Designer to check that she was happy with the style lines, which she was.
The solution I came up with was to move the collar down on the lapel, so that the angle at the collar break line was greater. The calico collar still lies a little away from the body but I am confident that this will be resolved when I make the real collar, as it will be pad stitched and pressed.

Ideally I should have resolved the collar pattern on the stand prior to the fitting; however I did not complete the calico collar with enough time to do this. In any case, I now know what the collar draft should look like, and will not make this error again. This will save on time in the future.

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