Sunday, 16 October 2011

Preparing for the fitting

The first fitting has been arranged for Tuesday morning, which is on schedule according to my workplan. I have tacked the jacket together and top tacked the seam allowances down, as we were taught to by Graham. Matching the checks was challenging but ultimately rewarding. It soon became obvious that when I put the two pieces together to be mark tacked, some of the had moved around a little under the paper and so it was a case of matching the patterns on the fabric, rather than following the tacked markers religiously.

I decided not to cut any sleeves. At the previous fitting for the 1890s lounge jacket that I made for SDP, there were changes at the arm hole and this threw out the fit of the jacket sleeve. Additionally, the measurement of the armhole may change when I add in the layers of canvas and breast felt, so I decide to omit the sleeve for the first fitting and bring along calico sleeves at the second.

At the fitting for the 1890s suit, Graham had us baste in all three canvases. However I made the decision not to for this fitting. This was because I was unsure whether the line of the lapel might change, since it was to be the designer's decision. As the lines of the hair canvas and breast felt follow the lapel break line, I didn't want to run the risk of having to re-cut these two canvases in case of any change. So I have only basted in the shoulder canvas, which covers most of the centre front jacket piece.

Very annoyingly, when I put the jacket pieces together I noticed that the checks don't match up along the back. The side back piece's checks are slightly askew next to the checks of the centre back piece. (Look at the left side back seam in the photo; the vertical lines of the checks don't join.) This is clearly due to an error in calculation when I was cutting out the pieces. I have decided to leave the jacket as it is for the fitting, in case there are any changes at the side back seam, and afterwards I will re-cut the side back pieces so that the checks match up.

This is really irritaiting but I am trying not to let it become too much of a set-back. In a way I am quite glad to have made this mistake for it will mean that I will be extra cautious when counting and measuing checks to match up in the future. I am often glad to make mistakes the first time round as I try to make a concerted effort afterwards to memorise the correct method of doing something. This way I can really progress with improving the standard of my work!

Additionally, I must note that in this case I am lucky in having the time and cloth available to do this. This definitely would not always be the case. Measure twice, cut once! as the old maxim goes. I would ultimately have saved time had I managed not to make the error.

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