Monday, 24 October 2011

Jacket - Extra research on style areas

My first suit was kept quite simple as Graham wanted us to learn the basics of making a lounge suit. As he felt that we would be challenged enough by the construction, he omitted details that are normally present on men's suits such as back vents and sleeve vents on the jacket. However, for this suit Rose definitely wants both of these details.

As I have not made these before, I have been researching these features in the library, consulting various books on the different methods of construction which are possible. (See the hard-copy Research File which accompanies this blog.) I have also borrowed a suit from the Costume Store which was tailor made (most likely by a student) in order to examine it. It is made to the style of 1930s tailoring (evidenced by the type of striped cloth chosen; the large winged collar,  double-breasted centre front and shoulder padding on the jacket; and trouser creases and turn-ups on the trousers) but the processes are invariably the same.
Looking at, and indeed closely analysing, a physical suit has been most helpful: I have managed to come to a much better understanding of the construction by this close analysis. I took my own mental and written notes on the construction, but here are the photographs I took of the suit to remind myself:

Jacket - Back Vents

Vents sit discreetly within the Side Back seams:

 Vent Flap is fully lined, with facings which protrude into the jacket:

 The lining hem is sewn with a small lip - same as the rest of the jacket hem:

 Interior of the jacket - see how the lining sits:

Really neat finishing at the flaps - probably hand finished. A little edge of cloth is left at the side of the flaps - the lining doesn't come right to the edge:

Trousers - Waistband

The waistband has clearly been altered since the trousers were initially made, as they have been in the Costume Store. However originally the fishtail back would have formed a smooth line at the top of the waist line:

Discreet brace buttons on the interior (the elastic used for its last show has been  left in).  The waistband is lined in cotton silesia. Cloth is finished by zigzagging and theatrical seam allowances are used (just as Graham taught me):

I am enjoying this independent problem solving for it helps me to really understand how and why certain processes are done. This really helps me develop my knowledge of tailoring for the future.

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