Thursday, 13 October 2011

Cutting out & Pattern matching

Meticulously matching checks


As soon as the fabric choice was confirmed to me I began cutting out, in order to make the most of the studio time I had available.

This is the first time that I have worked with checked fabric in a large capacity and I was determined to match checks as accurately as possible.

I decided to cut all of the pattern pieces individually (i.e. not with the fabric on the fold) so that I could really be sure of the checks matching up. I then turned the cut piece over to cut out the other side, before returning the pieces to the paper pattern in order to be mark tacked.

Following tips taken on previous tailoring projects I set prominant lines in the cloth on the chest and seat lines. This is so that the rest of the checks would be automatically thrown into place, and hopefully mean that they matched up. I also did my best to put one whole check acros the centre front and centre back of the jacket and trousers. However I decided not to worry too much about making whole checks across other seams as this might change anyway, due to alterations at the fitting. When I am more experienced in pattern drafting there will (hopefully!) be a higher level of accuarcy in my initial patterns and I will be able to match up patterns across a whole suit.

Cutting took quite a long time and additionally was quite challenging as the cloth, being a fairly loose weave, was apt to move about quite easily, throwing out the alignment I had created.

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