Sunday, 8 May 2011

Waistcoat finished

Today I finished up the waistcoat. I am in two minds about this to be honest.
Part of the reason is the cut. To be honest I don't think that it looks quite right - I think that perhaps the armholes are too low. But then I compare it to the photograph I took of the actor at the fitting and I think that I'm just being paranoid, that it looked OK at the fitting and that I shouldn't worry so much about it.




After the fitting I made the necessary alterations of letting out the CF a little, as it was a bit tight around the torso, also the shoulders were brought up a little and the top pocket was raised. The neckline was lowered a little bit so that it wouldn't be seen under the jacket...this makes it period correct.

When I was doing the alterations I found that there were going to be problems with raising the pockets as it rose up into the armhole. According to the design I was given, the pockets did go fairly close to the armhole...but not quite that close! This suggested that the armhole itself was incorrect - something that I was only able to correct marginally since we hadn't left much seam allowance here. But when I was initially drafting the pattern it seemed correct, and Graham checked it. I'm honestly wondering if it was just because I had to fit the suit to a completely different person. Anyway there's not really anything I can do about the cut now....except accept my mistake (?) if it was one. Mysteries.

Upon reflection, I think that what this really tells me is the importance of accurate pattern drafting. This is something that I have been realising more and more, and which has developed a lot through this unit.

I am sort of satisfied with the sewing of it. I'm quite pleased with my pockets, which seemed much easier than the first time I made welt pockets. I enjoyed working with the cloths provided by Ase a lot - really nice merino wool and a heavy silk for the lining. The one really annoying thing is that my iron unexpectedly leaked at one point during the pressing and left a few watermarks on the silk. It was a total accident, but wouldn't really be acceptable in a professional situation, especially if I was selling the item. The pressing cloth absorbed some of the water but not all. Luckily I have managed to hide this on the inside of the waistcoat.

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